Loire red review: 13 wines from Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil
In the third and final write-up of my recent deep dive into the red wines of the Loire, I’m focusing on Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil.
Yannick Amirault Les Malgagnes Amphore 2019 Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
13% alcohol. Organic farming. Deeply coloured. Wonderfully pure and intense nose of sweet blackcurrant and black cherry with notes of chalk and clay. There’s even a hint of blackberry jam. The palate shows lovely concentration, with a fresh, grainy, chalky edge to the sleek black fruits. It’s fully ripe, but also has freshness, with a very subtle jamminess as well as the brighter fruit notes. Amazing structure and finesse, but it also delivers a lot of pleasure. 94/100 (£34.95 Lea & Sandeman)
Domaine Amirault Clos des Quarterons La Ferme des Fontaines Cabernet Franc Vin Methode Nature 2019 Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
12.5% alcohol. From gravel soils, this Cabernet Franc is made with no added sulfites from biodynamically farmed vines. It has a pure, slightly chalky blackcurrant and cherry fruit nose. The palate is fine, elegant and supple with a chalky edge to the sleek, beautifully wrought black fruits, with a twist of raspberry freshness. This is a lovely fine, elegant wine showing purity and poise. Good concentration, but it has a lightness and finesse about it. 94/100
Famille Amirault Grosbois Les Grapins 2017 Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
12% alcohol. Cabernet Franc farmed biodynamically, from several small parcels on gravels. Very fine and refined on the nose with a chalky edge to the red berry and blackcurrant fruit. It’s so typical and has amazing harmony. The palate is supple and refined with sweet cherry and berry fruits, and a lovely grainy, chalky structure. Such precision and balance: this is really well balanced and expressive. 93/100
David et Nathalie Drussé Saint Vieilles Vignes 2018 Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
Vines from a 3.5 hectare plot (the domaine has 22 hectares). Concrete tanks for fermentation and ageing. This has a lovely fine aromatic nose with some subtle gravelly notes, a hint of pepper, and sleek blackcurrant fruit. It’s fine, delicate and quite nervous. The palate is fresh and supple: fully ripe, but with some pepper, gravel and fine green notes, as well as sweet berry and blackcurrant fruit. It’s so delicious, in a relatively light but fully ripe style. 91/100
Vignoble de la Jarnoterie ‘Concerto’ 2018 St Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
12.5% alcohol. 60+ year old vines (HVE3 sustainable), silica-rich soils, mechanical harvesting, aged for 8 months in chestnut barrels. They have 26 hectares of vines. Supple and fresh with lovely cherry and berry fruits, with some subtle cedary, spicy notes and a nice chalky undercurrent. There’s a brightness and freshness here: it’s juicy and fresh, but also compact and quite stylish. There’s a hint of redcurrant and beetroot here, too. 91/100
Donatien Bahaud Les Terroirs Bio 2018 Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
13.5% alcohol. Organic. Fine, fresh, supple and gravelly with sweet blackcurrant and cherry fruit with some fine green notes. There’s nice concentration here, but also elegance with some nice chalky notes and a bit of grip on the finish. Classically styled and delicious. 91/100
Frédéric Mabileau Les Roullières 2018 St Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
12.5% alcohol. Organic, from 25-40 year old Cabernet Franc vines. This is fresh, perfumed aromatic and nicely green on the nose, with hints of cured meat. Very forward and fruity. The palate is supple, fresh and very drinkable with some green notes alongside blackcurrant and red cherry. Finely focused with some notes of chalk and herbs on the finish. A very bright expression of Cabernet Franc. 91/100
Estelle Et Rodolfe Cognard Les Malgagnes 2017 St Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
13% alcohol. Finely aromatic, fresh nose of black cherries and chalk. The palate is fresh, light and supple with some green framing to the fresh cherry and berry fruits. Some fresh blackcurrant and a hint of gravel and ash too. Lovely drinkability: a fragrant, lighter style of Cabernet Franc. 90/100
Domaine du Mortier Dionysos 2018 Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
14% alcohol. This is organic Cabernet Franc. It’s really intense and vibrant on the nose with sweet floral black fruits and a bit of raspberry, with some floral notes, some pepper, and some meat and spice. The palate is fresh and peppery, with a touch of reduction (but it’s not bad reduction), and vibrant raspberry and blackcurrant fruit. Such lovely intensity here: a vivid, bright, edgy expression of Cabernet Franc. Tangy, slightly drying finish. 90/100
Domaine Joël Talau et Thierry Foltzenlogel ‘La Vau Jaumier’ 2019 Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
14% alcohol. 29 year old Cabernet Franc vines, mechanically harvested, fermented and aged in stainless steel. This is essence of Cabernet Franc, with sweet, focused blackcurrant fruits framed by chalk and green notes. Pure, fresh and vibrant with a nice juiciness on the palate. It has great presence and detail with a bit of grip on the finish. Joyful and more-ish, and very pure. 90/100
Domaine Olivier Cuvée Le Mont des Oliviers 2018 Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
12.5% alcohol. Supple and fresh with nice bright cherry and blackcurrant fruit, with a green herbal edge. Quite chalky and fresh with nice focus and a bright, juicy finish. Very satisfying and correct, in a green, fresh style. 89/100
Antoine and François Jamet Domaine des Vallettes Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil Origine 2018 Loire, France
12.5% alcohol. Bright aromatics here with green-edged perfumed blackcurrant and cherry fruit with a touch of chalkiness. The palate is supple and expressive with some green notes and bright, quite elegant fruit. It’s a fun, fruity, drinkable expression of Cabernet Franc that’s really nicely balanced. 88/100
Antoine and François Jamet Le Clos de Vigneau ‘Le Clos’ 2018 Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Loire, France
12.5% alcohol. This is juicy, supple and bright with fresh cherry and berry fruits, and a bit of chalkiness. Very expressive with a sweet mid-palate and a bit of grip on the finish. A bright, youthful Cabernet Franc. 88/100
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