I visited François Saint-Lô on my Loire Valley trip with the Grape Witches a couple of years ago. He’s a natural winegrower who occupies some amazing old Troglodyte caves in Berrie, near Saumur. This is a Chenin from silex-rich soils, and it’s the last vintage from this plot, which he rented for a couple of years.
François Saint-Lô Les Fontennelles 2016 Saumur, Loire
No added sulfites. Elevage in large caves carved into the chalk. A golden colour, this is spicy, intense and mineral with crystalline citrus fruit and some marmalade notes. So vital and electric with a touch of salinity. Profound stuff, although there is just the faintest hint of mousiness after it has been open for an hour. It is very faint though. 94/100 (£34.50 Wayward Wines)
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