A remarkable Mondeuse from the hero of this Savoie variety

Michel Grisard Domaine Prieuré Saint Christophe M……14  Vin de France
Michel Grisard worked on his family farm until 1982, when he purchased what was to become Prieuré Saint Christophe. It’s based in the heart of the Savoie wine region, close to Chambery, and there are six hectares of vines: four of Mondeuse and two of Altesse. Mondeuse probably wouldn’t exist now if it weren’t for Michel championing this variety in the early 1980s, when he was practically the only person who believed in it. He was influenced by Jura-based natural wine guru Pierre Overnoy in the 1990s and started farming biodynamically and making wine naturally. This is his last vintage: he retired and sold up in 2015. It’s labelled as a Vin de France, but it’s actually from the 2014 vintage and is varietal Mondeuse. The wine was whole berry fermented with extended maceration for a whole year, and then after pressing it was left for another year before bottling. Sweet cherry and raspberry nose is highly aromatic and floral, with some green pepper notes and a lovely sweet texture in the mouth, finishing with some peppery spice. It’s a real pepper bomb, with white pepper and a supple gravelly edge to the palate. Gentle but with power, and some sappy green hints fringing the really elegant fruit. Very refined tannins. 97/100