Highlights: Raúl Perez Ultreia Godello 2019 Bierzo, Spain

This white from the celebrated Raúl Perez is produced from 50% owned and 50% purchased fruit. It’s from various vineyard sources: half from estate vineyards on the eastern part of the Bierzo zone, planted on schist and clay soils; 25% is sourced from Cacabelos on deeper clay-stony soils; and the final 25% from Valtuille with a higher percentage of sand. Aged in neutral oak of varying cellars, and the wine from estate fruit has some flor influence.

Raúl Perez Ultreia Godello 2019 Bierzo, Spain
13.5% alcohol. Yellow in colour, this is a complex, detailed, rich white wine. There are notes of cabbage, pear, honey and mint, with some white peach and citrus fruit. It’s a bit saline and very mineral, with an expanding finish that has spicy detail and notes of nuts, honey and crystalline citrus fruit on the finish. Rich and distinctive with lovely balance between the richer notes and the fresher characters. A portion of the wine is developed under flor, and that gives the salty, tangy, appley notes that add an extra dimension, and even make you think it might have some oak impact. 93/100 (£12.50 in bond per bottle from Justerini & Brooks)