This is a beauty, from the fabulous Jurançon region in southwest France. Lots of flavour, but it all pulls together.
Clos Lapeyre Jurançon Sec 2019 France
13.5% alcohol. Made from the Gros Manseng grape variety (which is not related to the Petit Manseng, that also grows in the region). This is a really distinctive wine with wonderfully complex aromas of Cointreau, a touch of rhubarb, some mandarin and baked apple. The palate has a touch of vanilla custard as well as powerful citrus fruits (some orange peel), some quince jelly and a lively spiciness. This is such a lovely wine, finishing dry with a spicy finish. Such a lovely expression of Jurançon: it’s complex, but not as wild and edgy as it can be, and probably better for it. 93/100 (£16 The Sourcing Table, I declare an interest as contributing editor)