A brief tour of some of Italy’s most interesting red grape varieties
Italy is one of the most interesting wine-producing countries of all, with a diverse range of wine-producing regions running the full length of the country, from the mountainous areas in the north, to the southern extremes of Puglia and Sicily. And across all these regions there is a remarkable range of indigenous grape varieties. While foreign imports such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay have made some inroads, especially in Tuscany, Italy’s wine growers have been happy to focus on uniquely Italian grape varieties. Yet while France’s famous grapes have spread across the world, it’s not that common to find Italian grapes abroad. Is this because of the cultural dominance of French wines in foreign markets? Or is it because Italian grapes tend to travel less well? It’s hard to say.
I thought it would be fun to take a trawl of some of Italy’s best red grape varieties. There are so many, it’s hard to pick just a few, but here are some of my favourites.
Nebbiolo
We’ll begin with one of the most singular of all Italian red grapes, Nebbiolo. It’s the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco, the two world famous red wines of Piemonte. Nebbiolo tends to make red wines light in colour but firm in tannins, which age really well. These wines need some fruit as well as structure, or they can be quite challenging, but when Nebbiolo is handled well it is one of the world’s great red grapes. Typically, Barolo and Barbaresco will be aged for quite a while in large oak casks called botti before bottling, bringing some harmony to the wines.
Sangiovese
Sangiovese is the dominant red grape variety in Tuscany, and is responsible for some of Italy’s best red wines, from Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, and also found in Toscana Rosso red wine. Like Nebbiolo, it’s not an easy grape to get to know, and can make quite angular wines with tart cherries, spice and tar, with grippy tannins and high acidity. But these attributes can be a positive when the wines also have texture and finesse, and some flesh on the bones. They have fruit, but also structure and acid, and the potential to age well.
Nerello Mascalese
This is a red grape found in Etna, on Sicily. It has recently sprung to prominence as the vineyards of Etna have risen in fame. Over the last 20 years there has been an explosion of winemaking here with lots of producers emerging, and Nerello Mascalese is the star grape, making perfumed, lighter-style red wines on these interesting volcanic slopes. These wines are often pretty, but at the same time structured and ageworthy.
Frappato
Frappato is another Sicilian grape, and there are lots of plantings in Vittoria, where it is often combined with Nero d’Avola to make Cerusualo de Vittoria. This is a lovely grape in its own right, though, capable of making perfumed, fresh, fruit-driven wines with a nice sappy edge, even in this hot climate. One to watch out for.
Primitivo
The famous red grape of Puglia, which genetic testing has shown to be the same as California’s Zinfandel. This is usually used to make big, ripe, bold, punchy red wines, ripened by sunny skies and southern heat. They often have a bit of sweetness to them. But it is capable of making more perfumed, moderate wines, often with sweet fruit but also some herb, tea and tar savouriness.
Dolcetto
One of the real stars of Piemonte, Dolcetto makes beautiful cherry-flavoured, floral red wines with a sense of joy. It’s often seen as a lesser variety because it is planted where Nebbiolo won’t thrive, but it’s completely different and wonderful in its own right. Dolcetto reds are some of the bargains of the wine world.
Barbera
Another Piemontese grape variety, Barbera is just a good all-rounder, making ripe, fruit-driven wines often with a bit of spicy structure. Expect plums, cherries and blackberries, and moderate tannins. It’s popular because this variety yields very well, and while the wines are rarely spectacular, they are usually good. This is the third most widely planted red grape in Italy.
Aglianico
Another variety, like Nebbiolo, capable of making wines with fearsome tannins and good acidity, Aglianico is native to Campania and is grown in other areas in the south, too. It makes full bodied wines, but they have the fruit framed by freshness and structure when they are made well. It’s a variety full of interest, worth looking out for, but with their hefty tannins these are not beginners’ wines.
Nero D’Avola
Nero D’Avola is a Sicilian red variety that’s proving increasingly popular. With dark skins, it often makes quite dark, fruit-driven wines – so it’s rather different from Nerello Mascalese and Frappato – and these can range from bright and fruity, to dense and rich. It works well with oak and has been compared with Shiraz for its ability to make likeable fruit-forward wines in a warm climate.
