Chinado: natural wines from Portugal’s Lisboa wine region
Website: https://www.vinhochinado.com/
Chinado are based in Alcobaça, the home of the famous monastery, in the Lisboa wine region, where they make natural wines.
It’s the project of João and Alennah Tereso. João Tereso was (and still is) a sound engineer, but he was drawn to making wine in 2017 when he wanted to ensure the longevity of his grandfather’s field-blend vineyards which are based in Alcobaça, an hour’s drive north of Lisboa. In 2018 he took on a further two neglected vineyards. The vines are mostly old (40-80 years) and are found on small hillsides, not far from the Atlantic. He’s been farming organically since 2020.
Soils are clay/limestone, and some of the vineyards have more red clay, while others have limestone at the surface. This is an old ocean floor.
Chinado is slang for ‘stabbed’, from the word ‘chino’ for knife. It also has the dual meaning of being the stone used to mark the boundaries of a property. The illustration used on the labels was drawn by a friend of João’s.
THE WINES
Chinado Branco 2022 Lisboa, Portugal
This is mostly Arinto, Fernão Pires and Vital, plus a bit of young Alvarinho, from eight different plots. Barrel fermented. Lively and pure with notes of lemon and table grape. Very fresh with nice juiciness, and shows a hint of cherry. Lovely texture, finishing with green apple and some lemon. 93/100
Chinado Vinho Branco de Curtimenta 2023 Lisboa, Portugal (tank sample)
This spent two weeks on skins. In the past they have done 8 days to three weeks. It comes from two plots, both field blends of white varieties. Highly aromatic with fresh pear and apple fruit, some aniseed, and some peachy richness. There’s lovely freshness on the palate with a twist of pithy structure, and fresh linear fruit. Such purity here. 93/100
Chinado Rosé 2022 Lisboa, Portugal
This is made with non-local grapes: it’s Touriga Nacional from a young vineyard in the region. Whole bunch pressed to barrel. Pale pink with some orange. Lively and focused with nice freshness, showing purity and precision with good acidity as well as pear and some tart cherry fruit. 92/100
Chinado Palheto 2022 Lisboa, Portugal
This is from an 80 year-old vineyard abandoned in 2017, which he started working with in 2018 and then bought in 2020. No machines are used. The 950 vines are a mix of 30 varieties, mainly white. The grapes are destemmed, foot-trodden and then macerated for 5 days before pressing to 500 litre barrels. Pale in colour, this is supple and fresh with tart cherry fruit and some redcurrant notes. Juicy and layered showing nice precision. Pure with a bit of structure. Very fine. 94/100
Chinado Tinto 2022 Lisboa, Portugal
Mostly Castelão, from three plots. 35% aged in oak. Lovely weight here: fresh and fine with lovely red cherries and some raspberry. Very pure and fruit-driven, but fresh with a chalky texture and good acidity. 94/100
Chinado Pet Nat Rosé 2023 Lisboa, Portugal
This is Touriga Nacional, no added sulfites. Cloudy and lively with nice acidity. Fresh and tart with lovely texture and brightness. Zippy and focused; pure and fine. 92/100
