Exploring Bulgarian Wine (5) Bononia Estate
Bononia is an impressive operation located at the biggest turn in the Danube. It’s owned by the Yotov family, and wine is their passion. They started out making parts for the aviation industry, hence the logo, which is a propellor. Their company is called Jotov & Son, and their speciality is defence-related products. Business has clearly been good, as evidenced by the immaculate modern winery and the large hotel on the property, which is in the main building that dates back to 1895.
This building was established by two brothers who founded one of the first breweries in the Balkans, in part because of the soft water here ideally suited to brewing. The renovations here maintained the original design, and they have 22 luxury rooms in the hotel for rent. Each is given a wine-themed name.
The Yotovys began planting and opened the winey in 2013, and have managed to buy quite a lot of land over the following years, so they now have 160 hectares under vine. They bought most of the land in one transaction from the local government in Vidin, with 40 properties combined together in the deal.
The soils are deep river sediments, with blacker soil at the top from organic material, and then at least 2 metres where the roots can penetrate easily. In summer it gets very hot here, so they have to irrigate. But at night the temperature drops a bit, by say 10 C.
They grow more than 20 different varieties with a focus on whites. It took a while to find out what to combine with Dimyat, which is quite a neutral variety. They sell some grapes, even to local people for them to make their own wine at home, a Bulgarian tradition.
Gomotartzi is the lower-level brand of Bononia, but the quality is high and it offers really good value. Istar is their restaurant brand at a slightly higher level.
Gamza used to be widespread in this region. It was easy to grow but climate change has made it trickier. People used to grow it at home and make their own wine. In 2019 they started working with Gamza and weren’t happy, so didn’t place it on the market, but now they have got the hang of it.
THE WINES
Bononia Gomotartzi Dimyat Vermentino 2023 Danube Plain, Bulgaria
12.5% alcohol. pH 3.02. Dimyat (70% of this blend) is a traditional Bulgarian grape, perhaps the oldest in the country, and it was almost forgotten. Juicy and linear with lovely precision to the lemony fruit, with a touch of tropicality around the edges. High acidity and nice purity. Such precision here. 91/100
Bononia Istar Chardonnay 2023
13.5% alcohol. 30% aged in French oak for 3 months. This has lovely definition with some subtle spicy framing to the ripe pear and peach fruit. This has a kiss of oak, but it’s really well integrated with some nuts. Richness here with nice acidity balancing out the sweet core of fruit. Such good balance here. 93/100
Bononia Istar Sauvignon Blanc 2023
Tight and mineral with nice acidity showing subtle green notes, and good acidity. Steely, mineral and intense with wet stone, with a bit of passionfruit and melon but this hides behind the taut citrus fruit. Lovely weight and balance, finishing fresh. Quite distinctive. 91/100
Bononia Istar Dimyat 2023
Lively and vivid with nice acidity and a strong stony, mineral character. It has some citrus, but it’s not overly fruity. Has good transparency and keen acidity with a slight smoky note and some saline hints. 93/100
Bononia Vrachanski Misket 2023
12.5% alcohol. Highly aromatic with a pithy grapey edge to the citrus fruit. Very terpenic. The palate is bold and pithy with bright lemony fruit, some table grape notes, and then some grapefruit pith on the finish. Really powerful and distinctive with high acidity. 92/100
Bononia Gomotartzi Gamza Cabernet Franc 2023
13% alcohol. First vintage of this wine. Beautiful aromatics here: floral red cherries and some aniseed and a touch of cranberry. The palate has lovely direct red fruits with juicy cherry notes and some nice raspberry, with some subtle jammy hints but then a fresh, direct finish here. 70% Gamza here, makes its presence felt really well. This is quite beautiful: no oak in the way. Served chilled, and it works like this. 93/100
Bononia Itsar Gamza 2022
Very pure and linear with lovely red cherries and raspberries with a bit of grip. Such purity and finesse here with sweet redcurrants and red cherries, as well as nice acidity. Such a lovely wine. 94/100
Bononia Istar Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc 2021
14% alcohol. This is really good, capturing the character of these grape varieties really well. Some gravel and chalk as well as leafy green notes accompanying the blackcurrant and red cherry fruit. Nice texture here with good structure, but resolved structure. Stylish. 92/100
Bononia Istar Cabernet Franc 2022
A beautiful expression of Cabernet Franc with lovely blackcurrant and raspberry fruit, with a touch of cherry. Textural with fine spices and a subtle hint of green, showing some flesh but also appropriate structure. The emphasis is on the fruit, which is nicely ripe, with a bit of grainy grip. 92/100
Bononia [Sweet Wine] 2023
This is a blend of Pinot Gris and Traminer and it hasn’t been named yet. Dense and not too sweet, showing a spicy edge to the pear, grape and cherry fruit. Has nice acidity, with some almond hints. 90/100
EXPLORING BULGARIAN WINE
- Introduction
- Tipchenitza Winery
- The Jolly Vintners
- Château Burgozone
- Bononia Estate
- Magura
- Katarzyna Wine
- Villa Melnik
- Aya Estate
- Other wines tasted
