Zinfandel: California’s own grape, tasting 59 top examples
My first real encounter with Zinfandel was reading an excellent book by US author David Darlington, titled Angels’ Visits, and later republished as ‘Zin’. I read it fairly early on in my wine journey and was taken by the story of how this unlikely grape variety came to be California’s own variety.
Some history. Zinfandel found its way into California back in the 1850s, and thrived across the state’s various winegrowing locations. This was the gold rush era, and wine production was moving north from the vineyards around Los Angeles where it had previously been concentrated.
One speculation for Zinfandel’s success is that it’s an easy variety to grow without any trellis, as a head-trained bush vine. Posts and steel wire for trellising were scarce back then. It also yielded well, making juicy, quite robust wines with more colour than Mission, which had been the key grape in the state for a long time.
But Zinfandel had been grown in the USA for some 30 years before this, on the east coast where it was a popular table grape, grown in greenhouses. Sea captain Frederick Macondray is credited with bringing cuttings from the east coast to California: it would have been a long sea voyage, but maybe the land journey would have been a lengthy one back then, too. Known also as Black St Peter, Zinfandel was the third wine grape grown in California after Muscat and Mission.
These days, it’s still the third most widely planted grape variety in the state, with 39 000 acres, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay leading the way.
For a long time the origins of Zinfandel were a mystery. Back in the 1960s a UC Davis professor called Austin Goheen had noted the similarity between Zinfandel and Primitivo. He’d even gone to the trouble growing them alongside each other. Then in 1975, well before any genetic testing was possible, another researcher called Wade Wolfe did isozyme fingerprinting and found a match, but this was still not conclusive: it just meant they were closely related.
It wasn’t until 2000 that a paper was published, with famed grapevine geneticist Carole Meredith as the lead author, showing that genetic analysis indicated that Zinfandel was the same as Primitivo, and later work showed that the origins of Primitivo were in Croatia, where the variety was known as Tridibrag.
So where does Zinfandel fit in California’s wine scene today? It has its own place, and also a number of hardcore fans (there’s a group called ZAP, for Zinfandel Advocates and Producers), but it also makes a lot of inexpensive, often joyful wines. And Sutter Home famously invented a new category for it: White Zinfandel, made by direct pressing the grapes to make a pale pink wine, often with a bit of sweetness. This has been a huge success. But the real interest for geeks like me is the treasure trove of old vineyards, some from the 19th century, that are still going strong. Farmed with care, and then treated intelligently in the winery, and Zinfandel can make compelling wines in a unique style. It’s also possible to take old vine Zinfandel and do horrible things in the cellar with it, using all sorts of oak adjuncts to inject extraneous flavours into it in a bid to raise its consumer appeal.
So, to the notes below. These were taken at a large tasting of Zinfandels held by the California Wine Institute in a lovely setting in rural London, under the banner of Zin and Grill. The wines were shown at a series of tasting stations spread around a campground setting, followed by a dinner. There was ample chance to taste through the wines before this.
I’ve arranged the wines in score order. Zinfandel is a really interesting variety. Of course, it’s possible to crop it high or pick it too late and end up with an appealing wine, buit a simple, uninteresting one. But taken seriously, it yields really interesting results. My least favourite wines were the one where winemakers have sought to match consumer demand by introducing extraneous flavours from the use of oak products. They are just weird, and it takes away from the qualities of the grape variety and site. Maybe they have some commercial success in the USA with these stylised wines, but I don’t see a future for them in the UK. Good Zinfandel from California will never be a mass market wine, because of the costs of farming, but good Zinfandel, not tricked up, will find a market here.
95
De Loach Heritage Reserve Zinfandel 2022 Russian River Valley, California
5% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. This is great value. Sweetly floral on the nose. Nice aromatic strawberry and cherry fruit with beautiful elegance on the palate. Some notes of tea and dried herbs with lovely sweet strawberries. Warm, spicy and inviting. 95/100 (£20)
Failla Day Zinfandel 2022 Sonoma County, California
From Ehren Jordan. Supple, juicy and fine with nice structure. Shows good balance and weight with some grainy structure and good density. There’s real depth here. Good intensity. 95/100 (£26)
Joseph Swan Cuvée Trois Zinfandel 2018 Russian River Valley, California
Three sites: Banfield, Vine Hill, School Road. Supple, fine and elegant with lovely red cherries and plums, as well as fine spicy detail. This is ripe but refined with some elegance and nice structure. Evolving very nicely. 95/100 (£53)
Turley Old Vines Zinfandel 2022 California
From around 18 vineyards too small to get their own wine, with average age of vines 80 years. Warm and inviting. Sweetly aromatic with floral cherries and plums, and a nice core of sweet fruit with some elegance to it. Refined, showing hints of pepper and dried herbs. 95/100 (£40)
Turley Pesenti Vineyard Zinfandel 2021 Paso Robles, California
Rich, warm and spicy with bold cherry and plum fruit, showing a wide dynamic range and notes of iodine, blood, orange peel and spice. Vibrant and fine. Bold in style, but great. 95/100 (£55)
Turley Uberoth Vineyard Zinfandel 2021 Paso Robles, California
Ungrafted head-trained vines on limestone soils. Ripe, rich and spicy, with raspberry and cherry fruit. Compact and concentrated with some grip and nice tannins. This is really expressive and dense. Bold and crunchy with nice raspberry fruit. Crunchy. 95/100 (£70)
94
Arnot Roberts Kirschenman Vineyard Zindandel 2023 Lodi, California
This is from a famous Mokelumne River own-rooted vineyard planted in 1915. Juicy, taut and fresh with supple berry fruits and hints of pepper. Juicy and linear with a nice green streak and a bit if crunch, as well as some bitter orange. Fresh and elegant. 94/100
Foxglove Zinfandel 2021 Paso Robles, California
Second label of Bob and Jim Varnet, sourced from the Double Black vineyard. Stylish, focused and elegant with sweet red cherries and plums, as well as nice grip. This has a lovely juiciness with some stony detail. Nice warmth and a hint of tear. Elegant in a ripe style. 94/100 (£21)
Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Zinfandel 2022 Dry Creek Valley, California
Supple, smooth, ripe and elegant. Finely spiced with sweet strawberry fruit and some dried herbs. Lovely depth and warmth here with real elegance. 94/100 (£35)
Limerick Lane Stomping Grounds Zinfandel 2021 Russian River Valley, California
Ripe and balanced with nice spicy detail. Bold, rich and dense with good tannins. Massive concentration and nice depth. 94/100 (£74)
Peterson Zinfandel 2019 Dry Creek Valley, California
From five sites. Supple and fresh with nice density, as well as a bit of elegance. Red cherry fruit with some strawberry, and then pepper. Elegant style with a nice flow. 94/100 (£38)
Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel 2021 Dry Creek Valley, California
Warm, spicy and dense with nice grip. Good concentration of blackberries and black cherries. Well structured with lovely fruit. 94/100
Robert Biale Black Chicken Zinfandel 2021 Napa Valley, California
Ripe but refined with fine spicy detail to the lush, sweet cherry and plum fruit. Nice spiciness here, with ripeness, richness and elegance. 94/100 (£68)
Seghesio Zinfandel 2023 California
This is sleek and warm with nice spicy framing to the floral cherry and berry fruit. There’s a bit of grip, too. Very stylish. 94/100 (£30)
Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel 2022 Sonoma County, California
Warm and sweetly fruited with pepper, herbs and nice texture. There’s a bit of grip. Sleek and rounded, spicy and warm. Really appealing. 94/100 (£46)
Shannon Ridge High Elevation Collection Zinfandel 2021 Lake Country, California
From 700 m. Real elegance and poise here. Ripe but sleek with core of sweet berry and cherry fruit. Quite floral with lovely weight on the palate. 94/100 (£19)
Turley Juvenile Zinfandel 2023 California
Great aromatics here: sweet floral cherry and strawberry. The palate is bold and sweet, and rich but elegant. Spice laden with ripe strawberries dominating. Easy and rich. 94/100 (£35)
Turley Estate Napa Valley Zinfandel 2021 California
Warm, sweetly fruited nose with dried herbs, pot pourri and ripe berries. The palate has a warm spicy edge with ripe, very sweet cherries and plums, as well as some stewed strawberry. Lush, floral and warm. 94/100
93
Edmeades Zinfandel 2021 Mendocino, California
Rounded, smooth and sleek with nice ripe, textured cherry and strawberry fruit. This has a lovely ease to it. Ripe but with some spicy detail. 93/100 (£24)
Flambeaux Zinfandel Flambeaux Vineyard 2019 Dry Creek Valley, California
Warm, sweet and ripe with nice sweet cherries and plums, as well as some strawberry. Bold, warm and sleek with nice intensity. 93/100 (£65)
Frog’s Leap Zinfandel 2021 Napa Valley, California
Sweetly aromatic with some refined woody, spicy notes on the nose. Supple and juicy on the palate with nice focus. A very grown-up, polished example of Zinfandel. 93/100 (£36)
Joel Gott Zinfandel 2022 California
Supple and lively with nice pure fruit. Ripe but inviting and quite balanced with cherries, berries, plums and some liquorice. 93/100 (£19)
Ridge Three Valleys 2021 Sonoma County, California
Zinfandel plus a bunch of other varieties. A fresh, more elegant style with a bit of grip. Nice spicy thread through a core of sweet berry fruits. Has a bit of aniseed on the finish, and some tannic grip. 93/100 (£45)
Sabelli-Frisch Alcott Zinfandel 2023 Mokelumne River, Lodi, California
Zinfandel in a bright, fruit-forward, lighter style. Juicy with supple cherry and plum fruit. Really expressive with sweet strawberries and nice presence and texture. Quite brilliant in this lighter style. 93/100
Viano Vineyards Private Stock Zinfandel 2018 Contra Costa County, California
13% alcohol. Centenarian vines. Warm, spicy and pepper with nice weight. Good grip, showing a savoury twist to the juicy fruit. Very attractive. 93/100 (£20)
92
Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2022 Contra Costa County, California
Supple and juicy with nice elegance and warm spiciness. Grainy, with a nice sweet core. 92/100
Duckhorn Decoy Zinfandel 2021 California
From six counties. Juicy, fresh and supple with lovely red cherries, some plums, and nice density. Resolves with a vivid, spicy edge. A rich style, but well balanced. 92/100 (£35)
The Federalist Zinfandel 2023 Lodi, California
Supple and floral with lovely cherry fruit and some fine spicy notes. Really nice balance here. Ripe, striking and showing some nice cherry fruit with richness but also restraint. 92/100 (£29)
Grgich Hills Zinfandel 2019 Napa, California
Sweetly aromatic with some woody, spicy hints on the nose. Supple palate is quite refined, showing some restraint. Sweet cherries and raspberries but also spicy detail, and a bit of wood in the mix. 92/100 (£57)
J Lohr Cypress Vineyards Zinfandel 2018 Central Coast, California
Ripe, sweet, floral and rounded with nice juicy cherry and berry fruit. Has some raspberry grip. Intense but still balanced. 92/100 (£20)
Kendall-Jackson Vintners Reserve Zinfandel 2022 North Coast, California
Beefed up with 16% Petite Sirah in the blend. Supple and sweet with lovely warmth, showing ripe cherries and berries as well as a bit of spicy structure. Shows ripeness but also balance. 92/100 (£20)
Limerick Lane Zinfandel 2020 Sonoma County, California
Supple, ripe and juicy with nice bright cherry and plum fruit. Rich with a bit of spicy grip. Ripe, rich and warm with some spiciness. 92/100 (£52)
Limerick Lane Zinfandel 2022 Russian River Valley, California
Warm, sweet, ripe and full with intense cherry and plum fruit. Has some grip, too. Warm and spicy with nice density. 92/100
Michael David Old Vine Zinfandel 2019 Lodi, California
So supple with sweet, rounded, warm cherry and berry fruit. Has some lushness and also some spicy grip. Satisfying in a ripe style. 92/100 (£24)
Michael David Freak Show Old Vine Zinfandel 2021 Lodi, California
Nice structure here. It’s bold, sweet and ripe with cherries and plums, as well as some spicy warmth. Fleshy fruit and a grippy finish. 92/100 (£30)
Peterson Bradford Mountain Zinfandel 2019 Dry Creek Valley, California
Primitivo clone, single vineyard. Sweet, warm and spicy on the nose. The palate is bold, spicy and vivid with nice intensity and some peppery detail. 92/100 (£32)
The Prisoner 2021 California
This is Zinfandel with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Charbono. Warm, sweet, ripe and full with intense cherry and plum friuit as well as some grip. Warm and spicy with nice density, finishing warm. 92/100 (£59)
Robert Biale Party Line Zinfandel 2022 California
Ripe and juicy with nice density, and a core of sweet fruit, rounded with a touch of cinnamon and vanilla. Has such supple, rounded fruit. 92/100 (£39)
91
Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Collection Zinfandel 2022 California
15% Petite Sirah in the blend, mainly Central Coast. Sweet and supple with lovely cherry and berry. Shows a touch of elegance, as well as some almond nuttiness in the background. A lighter style that’s quite fluid on the palate. 91/100 (£23)
Michael David Earthquake Old Vine Zinfandel 2022 Lodi, California
Lovely sweet, floral aromatics with a bit of savoury, spicy tarry character. There’s some richness and elegance but also some wood in the mix. 91/100 (£40)
Precision Wines Prototype Zinfandel 2022 Lodi, California
From winemaker Trevor Sheehan. Supple, sweetly fruited and bold with nice texture. There’s a bit of tarry spiciness but not too much. Nice intensity, showing some warmth. 91/100 (£21)
Sabelli-Frisch Mariedam White Zinfandel Stampede Vineyard 2022 Clements Hills, Lodi, California
From 1930s plantings this is dry, juicy and supple with sweet pear fruit and a touch of cherry. Has some spicy framing. Very appealing. 91/100
St Amant Mohr-Fry Ranch Old Vine Zinfandel 2022 Lodi, California
Some spice, tar and coffee on the nose. Ripe, sweet, supple palate with warm strawberry and cherry fruit. A core of bold sweet fruit here. 91/100 (£28)
The Prisoner Saldo Zinfandel 2021 California
Warm, supple and sweet with nice cherries and berries, as well as some spicy structure. A rich style with nice grip and intensity. 91/100 (£42)
Wente Beyer Ranch Zinfandel 2021 Livermore Valley, California
Supple and bright with nice juicy cherries and strawberries as well as some warmth. Nice spicy finish. Very rich. 91/100 (£20)
90
Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel 2023 Lodi, California
Supple, ripe, rich and floral with black cherries and some spicy detail. Tannic and grippy under the fruit with a tarry edge. But the fruit, from 40-100 year old vines, is sound. 90/100 (£18)
Cline Live Oak Vineyard Zinfandel 2019 Contra Costa County, California
Single vineyard. Pepper, spice, cherries and plums. Has a wild spicy edge to it, with some grippy structure, and notes of liquorice and herbs. 90/100 (£32)
Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel 2023 Lodi, California
Western side of Lodi, with sandy loam soils. Juicy, supple and bright on the nose with sweet cherry fruit and nice depth. A bold style with a grippy finish. 90/100 (£20)
Ironstone Old Vine Zinfandel 2021 Lodi, California
Mainly from Mokelumne River sub AVA, deep sandy soils. Juicy and vivid with nice supple red cherry and raspberry fruit. Has a bit of grip, with nice density. Fresh and focused with some lively spiciness. 90/100 (£19)
Radio-Coteau Broad & Batten 2018 Sonoma Coast, California
Zinfandel, Syrah and Pinot Noir. This is wild and funky but quite fun with lots of spiciness, some phenolic character, some animal notes. But there’s some appeal still. 90/100
The Specialyst Zinfandel 2022 Lodi, California
From Trinchero. Supple and vibrant with nice juicy cherry and plum fruit. Has some raspberry grip. Nice focus here with some pepper and spice. 90/100 (£18)
Below 90
Cline Old Vine Zinfandel 2022 Lodi, California
14 different vineyard sites. Vivid and dense. Spicy with nice grip, and notes of tar, spice, pepper and clove. Nice weight of fruit. 89/100 (£18)
Sobon Estate Old Vines Zinfandel 2021 Amador County, California
Sweetly herbal with a warm, spicy nose, as well as notes of pepper and cherries. The palate is warm and vivid with some herbal twist. Intense and sweetly fruited. 89/100 (£24)
Boneshaker Old Vine Zinfandel 2021 Lodi, California
From Hahn family (part of Gallo). Bruella and Fathom Ranch vineyards. Fresh and lush with some spiciness. Black cherries, plums and raspberries with a bit of spice. Lush and nicely complex in this coffee and spice sort of Zin style. 88/100 (£16)
Granite Hills Cellars Old Vine Zinfandel 2022 Lodi, California
This is from Kautz family. Cedar, spice, tar and coffee on the nose. Bright and lively with nice intensity. Spicy with some coffee on the palate. A crowd pleaser. 87/100 (£12)
Three Finger Jack Old Vine Zinfandel 2023 Lodi, California
Powerful and impactful with some spice, smoke, coffee and tar, as well as clove and pepper, adding an extra dimension to the sweet fruit. I think it’s a bit of a distraction. 85/100 (£17)
Rombauer Zinfandel 2021 California
From Gallo. Amador, El Dorado, Lake County and Napa. Some vanilla and coffee on the nose. The palate has fresh, supple berry fruits, augmented with distracting vanilla notes. It makes it taste a bit confected, but there’s certainly some interesting fruit impact here. 86/100 (£38)
Sutter Home White Zinfandel NV California
The one that started the whole white Zinfandel thing. Off-dry with quite a bit of sweetness and a slightly jellyish, rounded palate with some pear and peach fruit. Clean, quite tasty. 82/100
Troublemaker by Austin Hope Blend 17 NV Central Coast, California
This has clove, pepper, coffee and tar on the nose with the woody notes dominating. The palate is juicy and vivid with more bold, woody, spicy notes and some coffee and vanilla. Distinctive. 80/100 (£26)
