Beaumes de Venise exploration: Domaine de la Ferme Saint-Martin
Thomas Jullien’s grandfather arrived in the region in 1950. He had a third of a farm, and by 1955 he’d taken over the whole farm, bought with a loan from friends. Then in 1956 there was a big frost.
He began making wine in 1960, and his last vintage was 1990, when he handed over to Thomas’ father, who had taken an interest in making natural wine. In 1986 he’d been to a Salon for independent vignerons, and listened to some of them who were interested in taking a low intervention direction.
In 1994/1995 he planted lots of different varieties, and started making natural wine. Thomas came along in 2006, and spent quite a while visiting other natural winemakers to learn from them.
He has 20 hectares that have been farmed organically for 30 years. ‘I make too many wines,’ he says. ‘It’s the identity of the vineyard.’
Domaine de la Ferme Saint-Martin ‘Austral’ 2022 Vin de France
This white is from trias terroir in Beaumes-de-Venise. 80% Roussanne and 20% Grenache, 12 days on skins. Fresh and supple, and quite spicy. Nice pear, peach and citrus fruit with a bit of grip. Very nice. 93/100
Domaine de la Ferme Saint-Martin ‘Les Vignes de Thomas’ Ventoux 2024 France
Thomas buys the grapes for this, but they have to be within 10 minutes’ drive, they are organic, and they are picked into boxes maximum capacity 300 kg. Pale and cloudy. Light, peppery and expressive with lovely focus to the juicy fruit, and good acidity. Dried herbs and tangy lemon fruit here with real personality. Lovely balance. 93/100
Domaine de la Ferme Saint-Martin ‘Le Gerine’ Ventoux 2024 France
This is from his own vines. Light and slightly cloudy this is textural, fine and light, with spicy, peppery notes and silky cherry and plum fruit. Has great balance and good acidity, with spicy framing. 94/100
Domaine de la Ferme Saint-Martin ‘Les Estillades’ Ventoux 2023 France
13% alcohol. This is a 2 hectare plot surrounded by forest, with clay soils. 90% Grenache. Lighter red in colour and slightly cloudy. This has some presence and focus with nice tannins under the raspberry and redcurrant fruit with juicy cherries, too. Nice purity and good acidity. Elegant and fine. 95/100
Domaine de la Ferme Saint-Martin ‘Saint-Martin’ Beaumes de Venise 2023 France
14.5% alcohol. 95% Grenache, 5% Syrah, organic. Peppery, herby and spicy with some char and liquorice notes on the nose. The palate is meaty and spicy with a savoury twist to the bright berry fruits. Lovely detail to this wine: it’s quite intriguing. 93/100
Domaine de la Ferme Saint-Martin ‘Saint-Martin’ Beaumes de Venise 2019 France
14.5% alcohol. The label dates from 1964. Made from 60-110 year old vines. Bold and intense, but still fresh, with lovely concentration and density. This is grippy, with firm tannins and then lovely blackberry and cherry fruit, with some drying on the finish. 93/100
Domaine de la Ferme Saint-Martin Les Terres Jaunes Beaumes de Venise 2023 France
13% alcohol. 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Teret Noir, 5% Counoise. Organic. Complex, open, herby, peppery nose with some juicy red fruits. The palate is bright and expressive with lots of energy, bright cherry fruit, a touch of cranberry, and massive drinkability. This is quite lovely. A real outlier, but delicious and thought-provoking. 95/100
Domaine La Ferme Saint-Martin Diapir Beaumes de Venise 2022 France
13% alcohol. 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Teret Noir, 10% Counoise. Expressive, vivid, very spicy and very peppery with bright wild strawberry and cherry fruit with nice herbal hints and good structure and acidity. This is a brilliantly expressive wine that has massive drinkability, plus some seriousness, too. 94/100
Domaine La Ferme Saint-Martin Costancia Beaumes de Venise 2022 France
13% alcohol. 50% Syrah, 50% Grenache Noir. Lively, peppery, herbal and bright with nice energy to the slightly compressed cherry and berry fruits. This is a lovely wine made in a slightly earlier-picked style and it works so well, with juicy fruit but also layers of detail and flavour. So interesting. 94/100
