Katharina Gessl, an exciting producer in Austria’s Wienvertel
Website: https://www.katharinagessl.at/
The transition to the following generation is often a challenge for Austrian wineries, especially where the kids have travelled widely and have new ideas, but at Gessl things seemed to have been managed very smartly. Rather than blending together the philosophy of the parents with her own, resulting in a compromised range of wines, Katharina took over just four plots, totalling 2.5 hectares in 2022. This is smart, because if you make wine you also have to sell it, and the existing customer base, accustomed to the parents’ style, might not all warm to a wholescale change.
The vines here have all been farmed organically since 2009. Each year she’s been taking over new vineyards, and she now has 9 hectares. Winemaking is low intervention/natural.
Katharina Gessl Pet Nat Barawararin GVxGM 2024 Wienvertel, Austria
This is Grüner Veltliner and Gelber Muskateller, whole-cluster pressed and bottled with 15 g/l sugar left. The bottles are shaken after they are half way through eating the sugar, and then they are disgorged a year later. Fresh with a lovely acid line. Pure with appealing pear, apple and spice notes, showing some nice complexity. Impressive. 93/100
Katharina Gessl Spompanadeln Weiss 2024 Wienvertel, Austria
This is a blend of Grüner Veltliner, Riesling and Pinot Blanc. The idea here is to experiment with vineyard plots as she’s taking over more of them. It’s fermented and matured in stainless steel. Lovely weight with pure citrus and pear fruit as well as some apple and apricot. Has depth and some lovely texture. 94/100
Katharina Gessl Grüner Veltliner Hawara 2025 Wienvertel, Austria
50 year old vines, granite soils, fermented and matured in acacia and oak barrels. Textured and refined with citrus, apple and pear fruit, with nice layered flavour. Fine and full with a hint of almond, and subtle white pepper. 94/100
Katharina Gessl Grüner Veltliner Hawara 2024 Wienvertel, Austria
This was a warm vintage, 50% whole cluster, 50% destemmed. Pear, apple and spice with nice layered citrus fruit. Textured with some richness and lovely fruit intensity. This is rich but balanced. 93/100
Katharina Gessl Grüner Veltliner Hawara 2023 Wienvertel, Austria
Complex pear and apple aromatics. Fresh and supple with nice weight, and some fine spicy detail. Lovely balance here. 94/100
Katharina Gessl Schmähtandler 2024 Wienvertel, Austria
This is from the same vineyard as Hawara, and it’s also Grüner, but this plot is surrounded by trees and bushes, so it’s a bit cooler. She realised the grapes from here looked different, so she bottled this plot separately. Has focus and freshness with a nice acid line. Bold yellow plum and pear fruit with nice detail, and lovely complexity. Broad but fresh. 94/100
Katharina Gessl Schlingel Gelber Muskateller 2024 Wienvertel, Austria
Lovely floral aromatics, and notes of cherry, plum and table grape. There’s an appealing citrus twist. Expressive and full with lovely balance. 93/100
Katharina Gessl Pet Nat Rosa Gspusi 2024 Wienvertel, Austria
Bright and juicy with nice freshness, and notes of red cherry and herbs. Appealing citrus drive: refreshing with nice acidity. 92/100
