The Jura has a tradition of ageing wines under flor. The famous Vin Jaunes are made from Savagnin aged under voile (a ‘veil’). This is a Chardonnay from top natural producer Labet, made the same way. I bought this a couple of years ago from the excellent Caves du Forum in Reims.
Domaine Labet Chardonnay du Hasard Vin de Voile 2014 Côtes du Jura, France
14.5% alcohol. From a plot called Le Clos, 65 year old vines. This spends four years in barrel and three years under flor. No added sulfites (total = 26 mg/l). Aromatic and tangy with apple, a hint of cheese, nuts and a yeasty flor-like character. In the mouth this has richness – even a bit of oiliness – but also salty mineral freshness and lovely candied citrus notes, finishing warm and spicy. Such a lovely intense, complex wine with many layers. Drinking perfectly now. 95/100
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