Highlights: Pinotte! and Aligotte! from Bourgogne

These are really interesting wines. They are made by Sylvain Pataille, a well respected vigneron from Marsannay, for UK retailer Deja Bu.

Pinotte! 2018 Bourgogne, France
13% alcohol. Made by Sylvain Pataille. From 60 year old vines in Marsannay and Couchey, organically farmed. Soils are a mix of sandy, clay and limestone. 80% whole bunch, vinified without sulfites, and a small addition of SO2 at racking and bottling (total = 32 mg/l). 12 months in French oak and 12 months in stainless steel. Vibrant and intense with a beetroot edge to the berry and cherry fruits, and some savoury grip on the palate. Brooding, dark, textured and delicious with some meaty hints and a lovely iodine edge on the finish. Extra complexity from blackcurrant, woodsmoke, leather and freshly turned earth. Really compelling. Dark, surly and a little reductive, but compelling. 93/100 (£20 Deja Bu)

Aligotte! Bourgogne Aligoté 2019 France
12% alcohol. Made by Sylvain Pataille. 90% from a vineyard with 45 year old vines in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits (organically farmed, limestone soils) and 10% from pressings from Marsannay/Couchey. This gives structure. Fermentation and ageing in 4000 and 8000 litre foudres. This is very fresh and fine, with a slight salty edge to the intense apple and lemon fruit. There’s some pithy grip and spicy detail, and notes of fennel and apricot. It’s so well balanced with amazing precision, but also good concentration. A serious effort. 93/100 (£19 Deja Bu)