To celebrate its 125th anniversary, reknowned Sherry house Lustau have released three special Sherries: three cities and three types of ageing. I got to try them and these are my notes.
Lustau Anniversario 125 Manzanilla Pasada Papirusa NV Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain
16% alcohol. This is from Bocoys in the Papirusa solera: they are larger than normal sherry butts, with a bigger flor area, and these were aged in La Mergelina, the freshest part of the bodega. After eight years in cask, this is layered, complex and saline with some pear and apple fruit with a tapering salty finish after a warm, textured mid-palate of nuts, honey and apple. There’s a lovely depth and intensity here, and you can feel the extra depth and warmth from the slightly elevated alcohol level. This is really broad and harmonious. 95/100
Lustau Anniversario 125 Amontillado del Castillo NV El Puerto de Santa Maria, Spain
21.5% alcohol. Amontillado Del Castillo is one of Lustau’s Almacenista series, made in an inverted solera with the oldest row at the top. But while the regular version is 18 years in age this limited edition is age 30. Sensational nose: marmalade, spice, some old furniture, lime and some honey. In the mouth this is dry and complex with a dusty edge to the orange peel, spice, honey, wax and iodine flavours, finishing saline and bright. Such a complex wine, with so many levels of flavour. 97/100
Lustau Anniversario 125 Añada 1996 Jerez, Spain
21% alcohol. Lustau’s Añadas are naturally sweet wines from an incomplete fermentation and then a long oxidative ageing, in oloroso casks. This is sweet, spicy and complex with tar, spice, raisin and some dried herbs, as well as some marmalade, rasin, apricot and quince. Lovely balance here, with so many layers of flavour, beyond the raisiny sweetness. It just comes to your palate in endless waves, with rich grapey notes, spice and quince and apricot. 96/100