Highlight : Las Moradas de San Martin Libro Once Las Luces 2011, Sierra de Gredos, Spain

Las Moradas de San Martin sits at a height of 870m above sea level, on the fringes of the Sierra de Gredos, in the unique landscape of San Martín de Valdeiglesias to the south-east of Madrid. Twenty-one hectares of vineyards surround the winery. From old vine (some over 100 years), high altitude Garnacha located at 900m in the windy Madrilenian slope, these organically farmed vines are rooted in the estate’s granitic sandy soils. Winemaker Isabel Galindo is very hands-off in the winery, respecting the vines and farming, and according to her, this is her masterpiece, made only in exceptional years. This comes off La Centenera plot, 100+ years old, covering an area of 3.25 hectares on a granitic mountain plateau (900m). Destemmed grapes were native fermented in new 500L French oak, where it remained for 18 months prior to bottling without fining or filtration. Strikingly savoury and surprisingly knit, laced by salinity and woven with dark and dried cherry, black plum, dried dark florals, black tea leaves, dried tobacco, pen ink, crushed granite on a gently plush palate. Acidity is mountainous and lofty, and tannins are fine and grippy, supporting the cushy fruit into its well-worked frame. The stony saline finish lingers forever. A wine of gravitas, drinking now, but with years ahead. 7950 bottles produced. 94/100 (TR)

Treve Ring

Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveller. [She is also Correspondent Anorak.]