Etna, Sicily: Cusumano’s Alta Mora


This is owned by the Cusumano family, a well known Sicilian producer, and the project began in 2013 in the northern zone of Etna. They began with vineyards in the Guardiola contrada, but now work in five. The wines are superb.

Alta Mora Etna Bianco 2022
From three vineyards, this is Carricante fermented in stainless steel. Spicy, vivid, smoky and mineral with vivid pear and peach fruit. The palate is firm and direct, mineral and powerful with notes of pear, peach and aniseed. Lovely depth and concentration. Bold and pithy on the finish. 93/100

Alta Mora Etna Rosato 2020
This comes from a single hectare of Nerello Mascalese, and spends 6 months on lees in stainless steel. Powerful, fresh and rounded, with bright pear and white peach. Quite mineral and textural with a grainy finish. 92/100

Alta Mora Etna Rosso 2020
Nerello Mascalese from five Contrada, matured in 3000 and 5000 litre oak. Pale cherry red in colour, this shows textured cherry fruit with some plums and nice weight, with a lovely grainy structure, showing supple fruit and massive drinkability. 93/100

Alta Mora Feudo di Mezzo Etna Rosso 2019
From a 1 hectare vineyard of 80 years’ age. Aged for 2 years in 5000 litre oak. Supple and stony with red cherries and plums, with mineral notes and hints of wax, and a nice stony grip on the finish. Lovely. 94/100

Alta Mora Guardiola Etna Rosso 2018
From terraced vines at 900 m. Old vine Nerello Mascalese with some over 150 years old. Juicy, fine red cherries dominate. Light but structured with lovely finesse and flavours of sour cherry and plums. Very fine with a nice bitter finish. 95/100

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