North Canterbury, New Zealand (9) Pyramid Valley
Pyramid Valley is one of New Zealand’s special vineyards. I first came across it on my debut visit to Aotearoa back in November 2007. Back then, I had a day job as a science editor, and I’d been down to Dunedin for one of our symposia. After this, I did what I often did on work trips: I extended my stay, booked internal flights and hired a car. This mini-trip took me to Marlborough, then up to Hawke’s Bay, then I drove up to Gisborne to see James Millton. I’d left a day spare before I flew out from Christchurch, and James told me what to do with it: go and visit two new producers in Waikiri, North Canterbury. This was pre-smart phones, of course. So I found myself with two appointments: Pyramid Valley, and Bell Hill, both of which I’d never heard of (but they were flying under the radar back then).
I arrive at Pyramid Valley and meet Mike and Claudia. At this stage I had no accommodation booked. I’d planned just to find some cheap motel before flying back later the next day. But Mike, once he realized I wasn’t an utterly terrible human, offered to let me stay, and called Marcel and Sherwyn of Bell Hill to rearrange my appointment with them to the following morning. What followed was a remarkable immersion into this special place.
Pyramid Valley in the middle of nowhere, stuck in an expanse of farmland spread across rolling hills.
Mike and Claudia had moved here from the USA. Mike’s background was art history and literature, but after a spell working in publishing, he caught the wine bug after a spell working with Josh Jensen of Calera. He became excited about Pinot Noir in particular, did a vintage in Oregon, studied enology and viticulture in Burgundy and then built a great CV with a star-studded list of vintage work in Burgundy, Alsace and the Mosel (including de Montille, Potel, Pousse d’Or, Kreydenweiss, Deiss and Loosen).
Mike and Claudia then moved to New Zealand, where Mike worked as a winemaker with Neudorf in Nelson. But they wanted their own project and began the lengthy process of prospecting for the right site to make great Pinot.
Mike had a specific idea in his head of what the perfect terroir would look like: clay with limestone, with a marginal climate that was more continental than the average New Zealand wine growing region. This is important, because the vine has to make a vegetative to reproductive shift at the right time in the season. Continued vegetative growth results in a big leaf area that keeps on pumping sugar into the developing grapes late on, resulting in a harvest with a high brix level at maturity.
After a protracted search period, Mike and Claudia discovered their dream site, in the Pyramid Valley, near Waikari in North Canterbury, in 2000. The hills around here have quite a bit of limestone, but limestone alone isn’t what Mike was looking for. He was after the soil of the great vineyards of Burgundy, which consist of a layer of clay merging into with limestone. The limestone gives structure to Pinot Noir, while the clay gives flesh. It’s this combination he found in the Waikari.
So they planted four small vineyards at a high density of 10-12 000 vines per hectare. These didn’t look like anything else I’d seen in New Zealand: the vines were packed in, in narrow rows, with single guyot training at about a foot off the ground. These vineyards, known collectively as the ‘home vineyards’ are planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and are known by the colloquial names of the predominant weed species in each.
There’s the ‘Earth Smoke’ Pinot Noir vineyard, which is named after fumitory; ‘Angel Flower’ Pinot Noir vineyard named after yarrow (the basis of biodynamic preparation 502); ‘Lion’s Tooth’ Chardonnay vineyard, named after dandelion (from the French dent de lion; used in biodynamic preparation 506); and the ‘Field of Fire’ Chardonnay vineyard named after a grass called twitch or quack. The boundaries of these vineyards were irregular, respecting the nature of the variation in the soils underneath them.
Farming was biodynamic, and winemaking was natural, and the first vintage was 2006.
I followed these wines closely. Sometimes they were brilliant, and Mike was fully committed to making the wines naturally: this was sometimes at the expense of being able to articulate site in a pure way. Some of the wines were a little unusual.
Sadly, Mike’s health began to decline, and in 2017 Smith & Sheth, led by Steve Smith, took over the project. For a while, the wines were still being made by the Pyramid Valley team, but in 2019 most were made by Smith & Sheth, and 2020 was the first vintage where everything was made by Pyramid Valley and the new winemaker and GM Huw Kinch.
Mike sadly died in 2020, and you can read my tribute to him here.
I visited with Huw on a gorgeous February day to see the vineyards for the first time since 2017, and a lot has changed. The original 2.2 hectares – the four home vineyards – have been supplemented by 4.8 hectares planted in the same style in 2018. They got a small crop in 2023 (spring snow storms reduced yields) and then in 2024 they had their first decent crop. A new wine will be made from the young vines. They also looked at the possibility of using some of the young vine material in with the old vines, but don’t want to go more than 15-20% maximum with young vines in the main estate bottlings over the next few years. ‘To me the old vines have just a bit more weight,’ says Huw.
The older blocks were planted over a three year period, in 2000-2002. The density of the new plantings is a little lower, at 1.25 m x 1 m rather than 10 000+ vines/hectare.
In terms of management, there’s a balance between cultivating and mowing, and this is seen as a management tool with these high-density plantings. ‘Sometimes you can get wet winters here and then we just mow,’ says Hugh. ‘But with a dry winter followed by a dry spring, we’ll cultivate all of them.’
In terms of the spray program, early in the season they use sulfur and seaweed nutrient, and sometimes some magnesium (because of the high calcium in the soil), and also some manganese to help with protection against powdery. Sometimes they use Silco (silicon with potassium bicarbonate and sulfur) to clean up powdery mildew pre and post flowering. Potassium bicarbonate raises pH to kill powdery, and silicon disrupts the cell walls of the fungus. Manganese helps create resistance. Huw says it’s generally too cold for downy.
They are certified organic, and practice biodynamics.
In the older blocks they are beginning to put some taller posts in to lift the fruiting wire. The benefit of the low fruiting wire was the reflection of warmth from the soil, but now they are moving to mowing more, this benefit is lost.
As well as this site, which yields 20 tons but with the potential to rise to 50 tons, they source 60-70 tons from their Central Otago property, Manata (this is the old Lowburn Ferry site that they purchased, in Lowburn). And they also source another 50 tons from Waipara growers.
After a thorough look at the vineyards, it was time to taste from the barrels, eggs and tanks: the winery is very sophisticated in a cool way, kitted out with a lot of impressive vessels of elevage. A great place to make high-end wines.
2024s (from barrel/tank/foudre)
Chardonnay from two terraces in Hawke’s Bay, brought down as juice. 548 clone. This will be a new wine that sells for $40. Textured and fresh with nice intensity. Lovely grainy wine with mineral intensity. 94/100
Manata Mendoza clone Chardonnay, taken straight from press tray to barrel with no settling. This is a blend of 4 barrels. Mealy, fine and spicy with pineapple, toast and citrus. Vital and lively with good acid line. 94/100
Same vineyard, clone 548/95, from puncheon. Fresh and linear with subtle toast, spice and minerals. Vital with good acidity. 94/100
Chardonnay, by Mike’s memorial tree, from Angel Flower soil, first crop. Nice energy here: bright with pineapple and lime, and real intensity. Compact. 93-94/100
Young vine Chardonnay Field of Fire. Textured, fine and detailed with nice citrus and pineapple. Linear and grainy. 94/100
Field of Fire Chardonnay, old vine, Taransaud oval. Very stylish, saline and pure with crystalline citrus fruit and good acidity. The first pressings ran at pH 2.93, so Huw gave this 4 h on skins to raise the pH a bit. Very textural and layered, and quite electrifying. 96/100
Young vine Chardonnay, Lion’s Tooth, puncheon. Textural and energetic with bright lime, quite crystalline, such great intensity and purity. 95/100
Old Vine Lion’s tooth in Taransaud oval. Concentrated, mineral and saline with lovely texture. Alert with a big dynamic range. Thrilling. 96/100
Pinot Noir. Huw wets the cap once a day and plunges when ferment is raging (this is needed or else he’ll get reduction, and the aeration reduces the temperature), and then when it stops he goes back to cap wetting. Whole berries, all destemmed.
Angel Flower Pinot Noir. So textured and fine with lovely balance and weight. Fleshy and elegant. 96/100
Earth Smoke Pinot Noir. Fresh, linear and bright with purity and good acidity. Expands on the finish. 96/100
Snake’s Tongue Pinot Noir. Abel clone, Manata. This is a cooler site with more organic material in the soil. First made as single bottling in 2021. This is concentrated, pure and fresh with a bit of grip. There’s some whole bunch and new oak here. Very stylish, with some edges (in a nice way). 95/100
Bottled wines
Pyramid Valley Field of Fire Chardonnay 2022 Waikari, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Firm, brisk, vivid and lean with lime and grapefruit pith notes. Taut with keen acidity. Beautifully focused and framed. 95/100
Pyramid Valley Canterbury Chardonnay 2022 North Canterbury, New Zealand
Fruity nose. Textured and alive with a nice mineral twist as well as ripe pear and white peach fruit. Fine with a tapering finish. 94/100
Pyramid Valley Lion’s Tooth Chardonnay 2022 Waikari, North Canterbury, New Zealand
This is expressive with a hint of mandarin and orange peel, as well as nice pithiness. Lemony and brisk. Fine and detailed with a great acid line, showing purity and refinement. 96/100
Pyramid Valley Orange 2021 Waikari, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Mostly Pinot Gris. Golden orange in colour. This is supple with notes of aniseed, pear and peach, and shows nice depth. Has a bit of grip, too. A lovely skin-fermented white. 93/100
Pyramid Valley Pinot Noir 2021 Waikari, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Floral cherry fruit nose with some redcurrant freshness. The palate is fruit-driben and shows such purity and freshness with some nice redcurrant notes. There’s a hint of olive tapenade, too. 94/100
Pyramid Valley Manata Pinot Noir 2021 Central Otago, New Zealand
Made at Pyramid Valley. Supple, elegant redcurrant and red cherry fruit with a nice rounded texture, and some fine spicy notes, with hints of pepper and mint. Lovely fruit and texture here. 94/100
Pyramid Valley Angel Flower Pinot Noir 2022 Waikari, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Very pale in colour. Fine and ethereal with red cherries and some spicy detail, but despite the light colour there is some structure here. Sappy, nervous, delicate and very fine. 96/100
Pyramid Valley Snake’s Tongue Pinot Noir 2022 Central Otago, New Zealand
This is the second vintage of this wine. This is from a part of Manata that is planted with Abel clone and went through a regenerative transformation. Fine, expressive and silky with lovely texture to the red cherry fruit, as well as some wild strawberry. This is very fine and expressive with some depth to it, and also a hint of oak. 95/100
Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2022 Waikari, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Brooding spicy, smooth red fruits nose. There’s an iodine/blood edge to the taut but light cherry and berry fruits with some fine smoky, mineral detail. Very fine and ethereal. 97/100
Older notes
Pyramid Valley Chardonnay 2020 North Canterbury, New Zealand
This comes from three vineyards in Waipara, one of which is 40 years old: this was an abandoned vineyard from Waipara Springs. Pyramid picked the grapes in 2019 and then leased it from 2020. Taut, fine and mineral with lovely precision. There’s just a hint of matchstick here with a lovely acid line and notes of grapefruit and pear and green apple. Focused and linear with a saline twist: very serious. 95/100
Pyramid Valley Springs Chardonnay 2020 North Canterbury, New Zealand
This is exclusively from the old Waipara Springs vineyard. Mineral and expressive with lovely intense citrus and pear fruit, as well as a hint of pineapple. There is some matchstick minerality, too. This is profound. 96/100
Pyramid Valley Pinot Noir 2020 North Canterbury, New Zealand
Floral, fresh and expressive with black cherry on the nose, together with some dried herb notes. Very inviting. The palate is supple and juicy with red cherries and raspberries, showing nice acidity and fruit purity. Has a fine, tart finish. 94/100
Pyramid Valley Pinot Noir 2020 Central Otago, New Zealand
From the excellent Lowburn Ferry vineyard that Smith and Sheth purchased in 2018. Concentrated, ripe and juicy, showing lovely fleshy black cherry and raspberry fruit. Nice density, with a juicy quality and some spice, dried herbs and plums. Opulent, but with lovely freshness and good structure. There’s a sense of precision to this wine and it has the density to age. 95/100
Pyramid Valley Korimako Pinot Noir 2020 North Canterbury, New Zealand
This is from Bellbird Springs in Waipara, and a northeast-facing site. Vibrant and focused with lovely acidity. Very pure and fresh with vibrant raspberry fruit, a twist of sour cherry and some nice stony notes. Goode acidity here: very focused and grippy with a hint of reduction and lovely structure. A lot of potential for the future. 95/100
Pyramid Valley Field of Fire Chardonnay 2020 North Canterbury, New Zealand
Really complex nose showing pear fruit as well as some finely mineral matchstick notes, as well as pineapple, spice and green apple. Massive concentration on the palate with firm citrus fruit and green apple notes. Fine toasty hints, nicely integrated woody notes and good structure and acidity. Lively and complex, showing beautiful balance. Powerful and energetic with real precision. 97/100
Pyramid Valley Lion’s Tooth Chardonnay 2020 North Cantebury, New Zealand
There’s freshness and richness here with peach and pear fruit intensity and some keen lemony intensity. It has lovely presence and focus, and the acid pushes it towards austerity, but the fruit brings it back. Hints of mandarin and fine toast too. Lovely depth and a touch of sucrosity on the finish. 95/100
Pyramid Valley Angel Flower Pinot Noir 2020 North Canterbury, New Zealand
Clay loam with some limestone here. Beautifully perfumed with floral red cherries and plums as well as fine herbs. The palate is fleshy and elegant with smooth red cherries and some fine sappy hints. There’s a sense of ease and generosity here and this finishes with nice acidity, and a bit of sweet raspberry crunch. Nicely structured, this is still primary but has lots of potential. 95/100
Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2020 North Canterbury, New Zealand
A little subdued and restrained on the nose with some sweet cherry and berry fruit. The palate has good concentration of sweet raspberry and cherry fruit with a hint of olive savouriness. Pure and restrained, and structured, too, with silky ripe fruit and also some tannin. Superb, with a long future ahead of it. 96/100
Pyramid Valley Lion’s Tooth Chardonnay 2009 North Canterbury, New Zealand
Full yellow colour. Highly aromatic with some development, showing toast and caramel and some burnt sugar, as well as some apricot. The palate is rich, intense and grapey with lovely intensity and powerful flavours of apricot, melon and toast. Rich and opulent, and quite crystalline. Good acidity. 93/100
Pyramid Valley Field of Fire Chardonnay 2020 North Canterbury, New Zealand
Complex aromatic nose of butterscotch and honey with some toasted bread. The palate is saline and bring, and quite vivid with apricot, spice and some toasty hints. Lovely precision allied to richness, with some apricot depth. Fine and expressive. 94/100
Pyramid Valley Calvert Pinot Noir 2006 Central Otago, New Zealand
From 2006-2012 three wineries shared the grapes from Calvert, each making their own wine. Pyramid was one of them (Felton and Craggy were the other two). From young vines. Supple and fresh with a hint of meatiness. Red cherries and plums with some black cherry and blackberry too. Has fine spicy notes and a touch of wild strawberry. This is textured and fine with real presence. 94/100
Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2012 North Canterbury, New Zealand
A cool vintage. Wonderful aromatics of sour cherries and some meatiness, with some nice spicy hints. On the palate, sweet strawberries, some plums and a silky smooth texture, as well as a nice sappy edge. Real elegance here. 95/100
