Exploring Vinho Verde: Casa de Cello
Website: www.casadecello.pt
Casa de Cello is the company that now owns and farms two estate properties, Quinta de San Joanne in Amarante, in the Vinho Verde region, and Quinta da Vegia in the Dão.
On this visit, I was at Quinta de San Joanne, which has been in the family of João Pedro Araujo for four generations.
João Pedro studied in Bordeaux and then came back to the family property in 1989, with a view to changing things and making wine. Up till then, the family vineyards were used to make wine for domestic consumption and selling on the bulk market.
His vision was to plant more vineyards, and he initially decided to add some French varieties. At one stage 20 varieties were grown here. Now, the focus has switched back to the classic varieties of the region: Arinto, Alvarinho, Avesso, Trajadura, Malvasia Fina and Loureiro.
1996 was the first vintage here, when the wine was called Leiras Mancas. They started with Quinta de San Joanne in 2001.
On this visit we met with Cátia, who is the winemaker and viticulturist, and has been here since the 2024 vintage.
One of the interesting things they do in the vineyard is an unusual three-part training system (pictured above). It’s a permanent cordon with spurs. One spur sends a shoot vertical, which is normal. The other sends one to one side, which then flops over, and the third does the same on the other side. The benefit is some partial shading, and increased leaf area to ripen a bigger crop.
THE WINES
Quinta de San Joanne Terroir Mineral Branco 2024 Vinho Verde
13% alcohol. Avesso (60%), Loureiro (40%). 9 months on lees in stainless steel.Taut aromatics with a wet stone edge and some green herbs, as well as some citrus fruit. The palate is fresh and focused with a slight greenness as well as good acidity. Lemony, taut and expressive, with some mineral character and a touch of sourness on the finish. 87/100
Quinta de San Joanne Escolha 2023 Vinho Verde
12.5% alcohol. Avesso (60%), Trajadura and Arinto. Stainless steel only, 12-15 months on lees. This shows nice intensity with a wet stone edge and some rich pear and melon notes as well as some bright citrus. Nicely weighted in the mouth, with brightness and good acidity, but also some appealing fruity character. Good balance and finishes well. 90/100
Quinta de San Joanne Herança 2021 Vinho Verde
Herança is the Portuguese term for heritage, and they started using this when they began using Avesso, an important local variety for this area of Vinho Verde. Mainly Avesso with some Malvasia Fina, stainless steel, up to two years on lees. This is taut and nicely complex with a wet stone/mineral streak, good acidity and some bold citrus, orange peel and dried herb flavours. It has developed a bit of complexity with age, and finishes juicy and a bit tart. 90/100
Quinta de San Joanne Herança 2019 Vinho Verde
13% alcohol. This is the vintage on the market now. It shows really interesting evolution, with nuts, a touch of honey and some wax, as well as a touch of apricot alongside some lemony fruit. The palate shows nice intensity with good acidity, finishing taut and dry. Intriguing with nice depth of fruit and some aged characters. 91/100
Quinta de San Joanne Superior 2015 Vinho Verde
12.5% alcohol. This is the older name for Herança. The blend was Alvarinho and Malvasia Fina, and this was the last vintage with this blend and this name. Complex nose showing nuts, toast and ripe pear, with some evolution. The palate is layered and complex and has developed a waxy, toasty complexity. It’s harmonious and drinking really well now at age 10. Finishes crystalline and quite long. 93/100
Quinta de San Joanne Superior 2009 VR Minho
13.5% alcohol. Yellow gold in colour. Appealing aromatics of toast and spice with a touch of apricot. The palate is full, complex and layered with toast, spice, lemon, mandarin and even some peach. Harmonious and full flavoured, this has developed in a really nice direction. 93/100
Quinta de San Joanne Superior 2005 VR Minho
13.5% alcohol. This is the debut vintage for Superior, and it has a little bit of Chardonnay in the blend. Yellow gold in colour. This is complex, layered and bold with some toast and spice, showing some mellow harmony. There’s a hint of mint, with waxy detail. Nice citrus fruit core with some notes of bread and honey in the background. Very stylish and ageing well. 93/100
