United States of Blaufränkisch – a deep dive into this amazing red grape variety (1) 25 examples from Hungary
Blaufränkisch is a grape variety on the rise. It has only come to prominence in recent years, for a range of reasons. One is that the Burgenland region in Austria was part of Hungary until the 1920s, and so the wines went east not west. And Hungary, one of the leading countries for this variety was under communism for a long time, with 5 year plans that weren’t great for viticulture. Then we have the fact that this is a high-acid grape and in the past it struggled in cooler vintages to taste all that nice. And when Austria got going trying to make serious red wines, they went to Bordeaux varieties and new oak and overripeness, rather than recognizing the jewel they already had. Now though, people understand how good this grape is. Not everyone, but enough people.
I’ve attended a couple of Blaufränkish events in the last few years that have looked at this variety from an international perspective.
One was in the Austrian alps: https://wineanorak.com/2022/12/14/the-blaufrankisch-summit-getting-to-grips-with-this-fabulous-variety-in-the-austrian-alps/
And one in Slovenia: https://wineanorak.com/2022/10/13/blue-frank-think-tank-2-tasting-blaufrankisch-from-around-the-world/
More recently, I wrote up a report of some of Austria’s most exciting Blaufränkisch wines: https://wineanorak.com/2025/01/08/blau-a-special-exploration-into-the-world-of-blaufrankisch/
At VieVinum in Vienna, May 2026, there was a special tasting of 103 examples (see the group picture, above, which is courtesy of photographer Anna Stoecher), and I’m writing this up in three parts. We begin with Hungary.
HUNGARY
Hungary is one of the leading producers of Blaufränkisch, where it is known as Kékfrankos. This is a selection of 25 interesting wines from across the country.
Rustica Winery Kékfrankos Siller 2024 Neszmélyi, Hungary
Pale in colour with sappy red cherries and cranberries, as well as nice spicy detail. Light and tart. 90/100
Skrabski Winery Kékfrankos 2024 Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary
Nice concentration to this bright, vivid wine. Juicy and tart with lovely black cherries and plums, as well as good acidity. Fresh, vivid and pure. 93/100
Zelna Füred Kékfrankos 2023 Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary
Warm spicy nose has some nice vribrant berry fruits. Fresh palate with nice tartness and some juiciness. An intriguing wine with some grip. 91/100
Martinus Estate Ágoston Kékfrankos Válogátos 2023 Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary
Some spicy oak on the nose with vibrant berry fruit. Nice compact palate with good weight and density, showing glossy black fruits. 91/100
Illés Winery Kékfrankos 2023 Badacsony, Hungary
Lighter coloured. Warm candied red fruits on the nose. Supple and easy with some vanilla and red fruit character. 88/100
Etyeki Kúria MSV Konkrét Kékfrankos 2023 Etyek-Buda, Hungary
Supple, light and expressive with lovely cherry and berry fruit, and nice structure. So well balanced. 92/100
Puklusvin Winery KáeF 2024 Sopron, Hungary
Bright and vivid with nice focus to the juicy, supple fruit. A very drinkable style. 90/100
Taschner Borház Soproni Kékfrankos 2024 Sopron, Hungary
Grunty and slightly reductive berry fruits nose. Chalky and dense on the palate with a savoury, spicy edge to the berry and cherry fruit. Nice weight. 90/100
Steigler Wine Kékfrankos Prémium Vintage 2022 Sopron, Hungary
Fruity, expressive and bright with nice juicy cherry and plum fruit. Grippy and grainy eith a savoury structure. Bright on the finish. 91/100
Eszterbauer Tanyamacska 2025 Szekszárd, Hungary
Fresh and supple with nice grip and good structure and focus with nice acidity. There’s some substance here, and a slight tarry edge to the fruit. 92/100
Eszterbauer Teihold 2023 Szekszárd, Hungary
Lovely structure here with concentrated sweet, grainy, spicy black cherry and blackberry fruit showing nice intensity. Finishes bright and tannic. 93/100
Takler Wine Estate Szenta-hegyi Kékfrankos 2023 Szekszárd, Hungary
Concentrated and bright raspberry and cherry fruit. Supple with nice freshness, finishing pure and vivid. Lovely. 93/100
Heimann Bati Kereszt Kékfrankos 2021 Szekszárd, Hungary
Juicy and supple, and nicely bright with raspberry and red cherry fruit showing nice weight. This is juicy and expressive with lovely fruit. Finishes bright. 94/100
Vida Péter Hidaspetre Kékfrankos 2022 Szekszárd, Hungary
Juicy and energetic with nice red cherry and berry fruit. Vibrant and expressive showing lovely energy and drinkability. 93/100
Lajver Winery Lajver Kékfrankos LTD 2021 Szekszárd, Hungary
Structured and grainy with nice complexity. There’s some woody, spicy depth as well as vivid berry fruits. Grainy with nice density. 92/100
Szeleshát Pincészet Kerek Kékfrankos 2022 Szekszárd, Hungary
Nice density here with substantial spice-laden cherry and berry fruits, as well as nice grip on the finish. Classic style. 91100
Tringa Wine Estate Inferno Kékfrankos Prémium 2020 Szekszárd, Hungary
Strong spicy oak imprint. Dense and quite structured with nice fruit but the charry oak is dominant. 87/100
Tüske Pince Halmai Csaba Menek Kékfrankos 2019 Szekszárd, Hungary
Supple, bright and elegant with nice juicy cherry and berry fruit with good acidity. 91/100
Vylyan Vineyards and Winery Mandolás Kékfrankos Vintage 2023 Villány, Hungary
Nice depth here: concentrated red cherry and berry fruit. Bright and not too extracted with appealing fruit, finishing fresh. 93/100
Heumann Winery Kékfrankos Reserve 2020 Villány, Hungary
Classic style with some sophisticated oak supporting rich, bold cherry fruits. Nice weight and balance with a touch of evolution. 92/100
Stier Winery Kékfrankos 2022 Villány, Hungary
Supple and spicy with nice energy and grip, showing lovely berry and cherry fruits. Bright, finishing dry and tannic. 91/100
Stier Winery Kékfrankos 2020 Villány, Hungary
Warm and sweetly fruited with some stewed strawberry notes. Nice savoury grip on the finish with some warm spiciness. 90/100
Bock Winery Kékfrankos Selection 2023 Villány, Hungary
Pretty and attractive with sweet strawberry and cherry fruit as well as some herbal character. Very appealing in a fruity style. 92/100
Riczu Tamás Winery Villányi Kékfrankos 2022 Villány, Hungary
This is spicy and sweetly fruited with nice plush cherry and plum fruit, finishing fresh. 90/100
Jackfall Kft. Kékfrankos 2018 Villány, Hungary
This is evolving nicely with supple, well-balanced cherry and raspberry fruit, finishing spicy. 91/100
