Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California (4) Ramey
Website: https://www.rameywine.com/
Ramey is one of the star wineries in Sonoma. David Ramey has become well known for his expertise with Chardonnay, but there’s more to Ramey than just Chardonnay. From their inception in 1996 until 2012 Ramey had no vineyards, but leased vines and bought grapes. Then in 2012, they bought West Side Farms, which is a 75 acre site on the edge of the Russian River, with 38.5 acres planted. The first vines on this site were planted in 1989, but Ramey have been active in replanting.
I visited Westside Farms on a gorgeous July morning with Claire Ramey, who has now taken over from her father along with her brother Alan, although David is still busy on the Ramey Instagram account! When they took over Westside Farms there were still some long-term leases on plots of the vineyard. For example, the Pinot Noir we looked at still had Twomey’s signs on the end posts – they have recently got this back.
There’s a large section of Chardonnay that has recently been replanted with clone 4 on GNR1 rootstock. This rootstock has good nematode resistance, which is helpful as there’s substantial nematode pressure here.
Near the river, they have planted a new variety. It’s called Caminante Blanc, and was released in 2019. Bred by Andrew Walker at UC Davis, it is resistant to Pierce’s Disease (PD). The PD pressure near the river is so strong they had little choice but to use this. It is 97% Vitis vinifera (Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are the vinifera component, with the resistance coming from V. arizonica and V. riparia, native American vines). There’s also another PD-resistant variety called Ambulo Blanc, but this tastes more like Sauvignon so they chose Caminante.
THE WINES
Ramey Wine Cellars Westside Farms Chardonnay 2021 Russian River Valley
13.5% alcohol. This is raised in concrete where it stays for 19 months. Juicy and lively with lovely acidity and texture. There’s a slight creaminess to the bold citrus and pear fruit, but also some saline, mineral notes and a zesty flourish on the finish. This is all about texture and harmony. 95/100
Ramey Wine Cellars Westside Farms Pinot Noir 2022 Russian River Valley
This has 3 weeks on skins post ferment, and the distinctive thing about this site is low pH/high acidity for Pinot. 50% new oak. Some oak is evident in this young wine, but it also shows lovely pure cherry and raspberry fruit. Perfumed with lovely cherry and spice notes, showing great purity. Combines ripeness and delicacy, and when the oak settles this will be amazing. 94/100
Ramey Wine Cellars Cold Creek Vineyard Syrah 2018 Russian River Valley
This is lovely: there’s a meaty, peppery richness to the sweet berry and cherry fruit with some charcoal and dried herbs. Ripe black fruits join in on the finish which shows nice grip and sternness. A nice combination of fruity and savoury notes with lovely mouthfeel. 94/100
Notes from a visit in March 2016:
David Ramey has made his reputation as an expert with Chardonnay. His winery is based on the outskirts of the town of Healdsburg, and when I visited he was in the middle of bottling. He uses whole cluster pressing, barrel fermentation with native yeasts and bacteria, and no filtration. ‘I use classical techniques,’ he says, describing himself as neo-Burgundian. I asked him about his views on ripeness. ‘I tend to avoid the silly debate on ripeness,’ he says. ‘I have always made moderately styled wines. In our region fruit tends to ripen with alcohols at 14-14.5%. Moderation in all things.’
David Ramey Russian River Chardonnay 2012 Sonoma, California
Taut but with some richness. Nice spicy pear, peach and pineapple notes with lovely richness and a citrus core. Stylish. 93/100
David Ramey Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2012 Sonoma, California
Toast, peach, pear nose with nice depth. Rich spicy fruit allied with citrus brightness. 93/100
David Ramey Platt Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 Sonoma, California
A very cool vineyard just four miles from the Pacific, planted with old Wente clone. Fresh, aromatic nose with pear, spice and citrus. The palate is taut and focused with nice precise pear and citrus fruit. Very linear. Great acidity here. 94/100
David Ramey Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 2012 Napa, California
Generous and slightly toasty, but has precision to the pear and peach fruit. Nice depth here and lovely focus. Lovely pear and citrus fruit with a bit of pith. Lemony finish. Pure and delicious. 93/100
David Ramey Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Planted in 1972 in the Russian River Valley. Expressive, fine toasty nose shows pear, spice and some white peach. Nice depth and focus. The palate has nice density of sweet pear and peach fruit with a spicy finish. 94/100
David Ramey Pedregal Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa Valley, California
In Oakville. Lovely sweet gravelly, refined blackcurrant fruit nose is brooding, focused and fresh. The palate is sweetly fruited but beautifully balanced with smoothness and ripeness, and some fine gravelly, spicy notes. Really refined. 94/100
EXPLORING THE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, SONOMA, CALIFORNIA
