Exploring Swedish wine (1) introduction

September 6, 2024September 6, 2024 jamiegoode 1185 Views

I’ve just spent a few days exploring Sweden’s vineyards, which are mostly based in Skåne in the south of the country. And most of these are located close to the coast where the proximity to the sea moderates temperatures year round, and where sea breezes provide some protection from diseases. It’s a small industry with most vineyards planted in the last couple of decades, and altogether fewer than 200 hectares under vine, but it’s growing quite fast, and so this is an exciting time to be visiting.

Interestingly, most of the vineyards are placed with disease-resistant varieties. The most widely planted grape is Solaris, which forms the backbone of Sweden’s wine offering and makes wines in different styles. This is a properly resistant variety, with pyramided resistance genes (two each to downy and powdery mildew; Solaris has Ren3 Ren9 Rpv3.3 and Rpv10 as resistance genes). It was bred by Norbert Becker in 1975, and it’s a cross of Merzling x Geisenheim 6493. It grows really well, and the leaves are huge. Other whites I came across include Phoenix, Muscaris and Souvignier Gris.

Of the reds, Rondo is very popular – it’s a slightly older resistant variety, and if the disease pressure is very high it can suffer a bit from downy mildew. In Sweden, copper is banned and so organics struggles to defeat downy mildew here, one reason the resistant varieties are so popular. Then there’s the more modern PIWI Cabernet Cortis, and I tasted a convincing example of Pinot Novo. Cabernet Noir and Regent are also planted.

The only vinifera varieties I saw grown on any scale were Ortega, Pinot Noir and Fruhburgunder (Pinot Precoce). These are challenging to grow but some do well with them.

One other challenge for vineyards in Sweden is the monopoly situation, which means that they can’t currently sell bottles at cellar door. The government has been lobbied effectively, and this rule is soon to change, although sales will come with conditions. There is a four-bottle maximum, and this sale must be accompanied by some educational event like a vineyard tour or a tasting.

My top 10 Swedish Wines

Kullabergs Vingård Immelen 2022 Sweden
Nice focus here. Bright with some pear and apricot, as well as some grapey richness. Layered and textured with fine spices. Powerful and lively with nice intensity. Rich, flavourful and complex. 92/100

Kullabergs Vingård Himmelstorp Pinot Nova 2022 Sweden
From 2019 plantings, this is ripe and aromatic with some sweet berry fruits complemented by some smoky bacon hints. In the mouth it’s dense and sweetly fruited with black cherries and plums. Rich and nicely intense with fresh blackcurrant and black cherry fruit, and nice spicy framing, as well as a subtle hint of green. 92/100

Flyinge Vingård Stal 2020 Sweden
13.5% alcohol. Stainless steel. Lovely aromatics with pear and peach, with a terpenic, pithy edge. The palate is bright and lively with nice weight to the pear and peach fruit, and a wide dynamic range, finishing a little salty. 92/100

Flyinge Vingård Ambra 2020 Sweden
10 days on skins. Bright and focused with some tannin as well as notes of orange peel and lime, with some minty freshness. Good acidity. Dry and a but firm, but lovely with it. Very stylish. 92/100

Thora Vineyard Pure 2023 Sweden
Solaris in stainless steel. Lovely texture here with nice citrus fruit, with a subtle herbal hint. Some subtle smoky, mineral notes with great balance. Stylish. 92/100

Jesper Friberg Skoksbryn 2023 (tank sample)
Cabernet Cortis, Rondo and Solaris. The red grapes had 10 d carbonic before pressing, while Solaris was direct pressed. Wonderful bright nose is reductive in a nice way. Bright raspberry and cherry fruit with lovely spicy detail. Raspberry and cherry fruit with a bit of silkiness. So expressive. 94/100

Jesper Friberg Urskog 2023 (tank sample)
80% Rondo, carbonic maceration, 20% Solaris. Bright and vibrant with nice bold blackcurrant and cherry fruit with good purity. Supple and bright with good weight. Fresh and balanced. 93/100

Thora Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 Sweden
10.3% alcohol. 60% in French oak barrels, the rest in stainless steel. Full in colour with some savoury, spicy notes framing the bright cherry and raspberry fruit. It’s quite light in body with good acidity. Dark, tight and firm, with a tiny bit of silkiness, finishing dry. Lots of promise here. 91/100

Kullabergs Vingård Josefinelust ZD 2022 Sweden
Bright and focused with lovely fruit: tart citrus, some pear, white peach and a tocu of grape. Lovely fruit purity and focus with nice integrated acidity. 92/100

Flädie Vingård Aniara Renässans 2023 Sweden
Solaris with 6% Muscaris, in stainless steel. Ripe and textural with a grippy edge to the lovely fruit. Supple pear and peach, with a touch of cherry. There’s a nice bitter edge that offsets the fruit. Stylish. 91/100

SWEDISH WINE

My top 10 Swedish Wines

You May Also Like