Highlights: Vignoble du Rêveur Un Instant sur Terre 2019

Mathieu Deiss, who works with his father Jean-Michel at Alsace’s legendary winery Marcel Deiss, created Vignoble du Rêveur in 2013. Translating as ‘The Dreamer’s Winery’, Mathieu farms grapes from the vineyard of his maternal uncle, Cassien Mischler, who unfortunately became ill in 2011 and unable to take care of the vines. The independent winery’s 7 hectares are located in Bennwihr. Together with his wife Emmanuelle Milan, they are fulfilling their dream to make natural wines that transcend the limits of grape variety.

Pouring a deep, hazy orange hue, this is 50% Pinot Gris, 40% Gewurztraminer, 10% Riesling, macerated for 8 months in amphora on skins, with an additional 3 months in amphora without skins. This was bottled without filtration or sulphur. Intense, though with an effortless, lofted freshness, this dry orange streams with bergamot, white tea, and honeycomb, with buzzing minerality underneath, and ample mouthwatering salinity throughout. The sides are stencilled with a tight, fine grip, framing this to the lengthy finish. Savoury, complexed, finessed, and memorable, this is drinking beautifully now, and with time ahead. 93/100

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Treve Ring

Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveller. [She is also Correspondent Anorak.]